How to avoid an
avalanche
Avalanches can happen wherever there is snow, lying
on ground of sufficient angle. The growing popularity of winter climbing,
hillwalking, ski-touring and off-piste ski-ing means greater numbers of people
are at risk. Each year there are accidents and fatalities and many of these
would have been avoided with greater care or knowledge, or if the victims had
even paused to consider that avalanche hazard might be present.
What is an avalanche? Snow is deposited in successive layers as winter
progresses. These layers may have dissimilar physical properties and an
avalanche occurs when one layer slides on another (surface avalanche) or where
the whole snow cover slides on the ground (full-depth avalanche). It may be
loose snow, when it starts at a single point, or a slab avalanche which occurs
when an area of more cohesive snow separates from the surrounding snow and
slides out.
Before you set out, it is vital you check the snow and avalanche reports where
available. These are issued every day from mid-December to mid-April for Glencoe
(including Glen Coe and Glen Etive hills), Lochaber (inc Ben Nevis and Aonach
Mor), Northern Cairngorms (inc Northern Corries and Loch Avon basin), Southern
Cairngorms (inc Lochnagar and Glen Shee) and Creag Meagaidh (inc north Laggan
hills westward to Beinn a'Chaoruinn). Avalanche information is also available in
the Internet, local radio and newspapers. Sources are listed at the end of this
article.
When you're out in the winter, first look out for visible avalanche actvity. If
you see avalanche activity on a slope where you intend to go, go somewhere else.
Look out too for new snow build-up. More than 2cm an hour may produce unstable
conditions and more than 30cm continuous build-up is regarded as very harardous.
Watch out for a lack of continuity between layers, slabs lying on ice and sudden
temperature rises. Importantly, if it feels unsafe retreat.
Many avalanches are cornice-triggered. In general, climbing below cornices
should be avoided during snowstorms or heavy drifting and up to 48 hours
afterwards, and during heavy thaw or sudden temperature rise.
On most hills in the UK, avalanche hazard can be avoided completely by a
sensible choice of route. Most large slab avalanches run on slopes between 25
and 45 degrees. Convex slopes are generally more hazardous than uniform or
concave slopes and ridges or buttresses are better choices than open slopes and
gullies. Lee slopes should be avoided after storms or heavy drifting
It is rarely essential to negotiate an avalanche-prone slope. It is usually
possible to find another way, or back-off. And it's worth considering the fact
that 90% of avalanches involving people are triggered by their victims.
If it is essential to
proceed through hazardous areas, the following points should be borne in mind:
* Solo travellers in avalanche terrain are in
particular danger.
* Off-piste skiers face the greatest danger. The lateral cutting action of skis
readily releases unstable snow.
* Direct descent or ascent is safer than traversing.
* If in a group, go one at a time. The others should closely observe progress.
* Close up clothing and wrap a scarf or similar item round the nose and mouth.
* Belay if possible, although this is rarely feasible on wide, open slopes.
If you are caught in an
avalanche any defensive action is very difficult, movement made almost
impossible by the weight of debris. Some of the following may be useful:
* Try to delay your slide by plunging an ice-axe into the undersurface. This may
help keep you close to the top of the slide.
* Shout. Others may see you.
* Try to run to the side, or jump up-slope above the fracture.
* If hard slab, try to remain on top of a block.
* Shed gear, sacks, skis, etc.
* Try to roll like a log off the debris.
* Swimming motions sometimes help.
* As the avalanche slows down, you may be able to get some purchase on the
debris. Make a desperate effort to get to the surface, or at least to get a hand
through.
If you are buried:
* Keep one hand in front of your face and try to clear/maintain an air space.
* Try to maintain space for chest expansion by taking and holding a deep breath.
* Try to avoid panic - this could waste vital energy reserves. If you are
walking with friends, they are probably search for you.
If you witness an
avalanche burial:
* Observe the victims progress and, if possible,
mark the point of entry and point at which the person was last seeen.
* Check for further avalanche danger.
* Make a quick search of the debris surface. Look for any signs of the victim,
listen for any sounds and probe the most likely burial spots.
* Make a systematic search, probing the debris with
axes or poles.
* Send for help.
* Keep searching until help arrives.
* Remember you are the buried victim's only real chance of being rescued alivel.
Although survival chances decline rapidly with duration of burial, they don't
reach zero for a long time.
Snow and avalanche reports
are available from:
Scottish Avalanche Information Service website at www.sais.gov.uk
National and regional newspapers in Scotland.
Local radio, particularly Nevis Radio and Speysound.
Reports are posted daily on strategic noticeboards in the five areas listed,
usually in the main car parks.
The Scottish Avalanche Information Service keeps records of avalanches
throughout the UK. They are always keen to hear from anyone who has witnessed an
avalanche. Recording forms are available from SAIS Co-ordinator, Freepost,
Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore, PH22 1BR or call the SAIS/Nevisport reports hotline
(free) on 0800 0960 007.
Acknowledgement: Information contained in this article is sourced from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland.