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Ben Lawers - Britain's tenth highest peak - dominates the picture postcard
scene of Loch Tay when viewed from Kenmore and, on a clear day, provides an
awesome perch from which most of Scotland can be seen unfolding around you.
This particular hill benefits - or rather suffers (depending on your point of
view) - from a visitor centre built on the unclassified road between the A827
Loch Tay road and Glen Lyon to the north. Because of its blissful situation high
above the gently curving loch, this is always going to be a popular destination
for walkers and the centre simply adds to this. Ben Lawers is, therefore, never
a place for those looking for solitude, except in all but the most testing
conditions. On the other hand, the small revenue generated by the centre is put
to good use by conservationists who are at least attempting to make sure that
too much tourist erosion does not take place.
So, for the purpose of this walk, we will follow the wishes of the National
Trust for Scotland, who own the mountain, and tackle the 3983 foot peak via its
3619 foot neighbour, Beinn Ghlas.
Leaving your transport in the ample car park at the centre, follow the wooden
walkway which splits in two with one branch signposted as a nature trail and the
other one indicating the path for Ben Lawers.
A glance over your left shoulder at this point will reveal the dizzying heights
of Meall nan Tarmachan which is a wonderfully rough and rocky alternative to the
grassy plains of Beinn Ghlas ahead.
The obvious path follows the line of the burn, passing some shielings, and
continues up steepening slopes before becoming a zig-zag to allow height to be
gained more earnestly.
The way flattens out before the final stiff pull to the summit of Beinn Ghlas
which provides a tantalising view of the day's destination to the north east.
Unfortunately, some of your hard-earned height has to be lost dropping down from
the summit into the col between Ghlas and its illustrious neighbour but at least
your legs and lungs will enjoy the break before tackling the imposing eastern
face of Ben Lawers.
Work to combat erosion on the broken granite upper reaches of the mountain is
obvious as you make the slog through the schist to the top with its trig point
and stone cairn.
As the saying goes, ''the De'il is good to his ane'', and we were blessed with a
particularly gorgeous April day on which to make this trip. The vista from the
summit down to the glass-like Loch Tay was matched by a similarly serene view of
Lochan nan Cat at the foot of Meall Garbh.
Hikers who have managed to leave a car in the tiny hamlet of Lawers can continue
their adventure by following the ridge to Creag an Fhithic and then bagging An
Stuic before continuing over Meall Garbh and
Meall Greigh to complete a worthy five Munro expedition.
But as we have just the one vehicle we
turned tail and picked our way carefully down the snowy slopes back to the col
before climbing back up Beinn Ghlas, resisting the temptation to cross over to
Meall Corranaich in favour of a pint at Scotland's oldest inn, down at Kenmore.
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WALK FACTS
Distance
5 miles/8km (or 11 miles/17km taking in An
Stuc, Meall Garbh and Meall Greigh).
Maps OS Landranger
sheet 51 or Harveys Ben Lawers.
Start/parking
Ben
Lawers visitor centre. GR: 609380.
Grading
A fairly easy trek until the
upper reaches of Beinn Ghlas are approached. Suitable for fit adults and older
children. At almost 4,000 feet above sea level the summit of Ben Lawers should
never be underestimated even on an apparently good day. Full weather and
navigational equipment must be carried at all times.
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