|
After a comfortably quiet night in tiny Corrour
Bothy, the peace and tranquility of the morning was smacked square in the face
by the pounding beat of an RAF Sea King rescue helicopter cruising up and down the
Lairig Ghru.
With a swift breakfast consumed, we set out at 7am up the path
behind the bothy into Coire Odhar. There was not a breath of wind in the calm
morning air and it was sweaty work as we rose above the glen below. The
helicopter circled back into view, setting down beside the bothy for a moment, a
tent pitched nearby straining to fight the stormy downdraft from the rotors.
Zig-zagging in its quest for height, the path finally emerged on to the wide
crest above the coire and, hidden by a heavy mist, we made the short detour up
on to the top of the Devil's Point. The clouds parted slightly, offering a tantilising glimpse of blue sky high above, but it wasn't enough to reward the
effort with a view of any sort from the first peak of the day.
The trek back down to the col was savoured by legs still not fully awake but
they were soon in for a shock as the ascent of Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir began
in earnest, picking its way through rocky terrain towards the summit cairn. Then
the most remarkable thing happened. We emerged through the cloud line into
glorious sunshine, the triangular point of Cairn Toul - topping out at over 4000
feet - poised like a volcanic
island in the sea of white across the coire, wavy wisps nibbling at its
perfectly straight slopes.
The world below was lost beneath the wide carpet of white cotton wool spread
across the Cairngorm massif and here we were, basking in the sun above all else,
the only souls on earth.
Powered on by tanning rays, we skirted the craggy top lip of Coire an t-Saighdeir
and climbed on to Cairn Toul. The flat bulk of Braeriach - another 4000
foot-plus mountain - was in full view across
the rocky chasm, the route there taking us on over Sgor an Lochain Uaine -the
Angel's Peak - and Carn na Criche to the Wells of Dee, an oasis on this arid plateau where we
drank thirstily to cool fevered brows. With all but the final few metres of height in the bag, the climb on to
Braeriach was remarkably relaxing but once there we fell back in the clutches of
the demon mist which denied us a stomach-churning peek into the cliff-lined
cauldron of Coire Bhrochain below. Descending east into the col
before the outlying top of Sron na Lairige, we left the ridge here and dropped
down into the Lairig Ghru, passing by the scattered remains of an old aircraft
which must have come to grief on the eastern flank many years ago. A vague path
skirted over the moorland to join the Lairig Ghru's main thoroughfare below the Pools
of Dee. From here we turned south and hiked down the glen to Corrour Bothy, arriving in time for lunch. The bothy is a fine base for bagging
Cairngorm Munros but it can be exceptionally busy, particularly at weekends, so
there's no guarantee of a space to kip on the concrete floor. Having walked into
the bothy the previous evening from Linn of Dee with full kit, it was now time
to pack everything back up into the rucsac and embark upon the trek out. Tired
but nourished once more, the walk took us through Glen Luibeg to derelict Derry Lodge and
then on down the track to the car park.
|
WALK FACTS
Distance The walk in to Corrour Bothy is
12kms from Linn of Dee. The mountain circuit, returning to the bothy, is 19kms.
Maps OS Landranger 36 or Harveys Cairn
Gorm.
Start/parking
Linn of Dee
Grading A fine upland expedition
taking in four Munros, The Devil's Point, Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochain Uaine and
Braeriach. The walking is straight forward enough in good weather, but care is
needed in the mist due to sheer drops into coires on the east side and in winter
snow ice-axes and crampons are a necessity.
Accommodation Corrour Bothy is a
small mountain refuge which can be very busy. There is space around it to camp.
Please don't leave your rubbish in or around the bothy - take it home with you. |