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This is a delightful lochside stroll through the ancient Caledonian Pine
Forest, in the shadow of the Cairngorm mountains.
Keep your eyes peeled because
you never know what you’ll spot when venture into the forests of Rothiemurchus,
near Aviemore. The trees are home to red and roe deer, red squirrels, the
elusive pine marten and the even rarer wildcat.
Centuries ago the Scottish Highlands were carpeted in woodland like this but
over the years man took the trees down for timber to build homes and power
industry and only pockets of the original ancient Caledonian Pine Forest remain.
One of the finest examples is here at Rothiemurchus in Speyside.
Lurking amid the gnarled old trees is Loch an Eilein - Loch of the Island - and
there’s a path all the way round. As you look out over the still waters, you
can’t fail to spot the island from which the loch takes its name. It sits
about 50 metres off the west shore and is home to a 14th century castle said to
have been the home of Alexander Stewart, illegitimate some of Robert II of
Scotland. Known as the Wolf of Badenoch, he was, among other things, responsible
for burning down Elgin Cathedral.
Up until the end of last century, the castle ruins were used by nesting ospreys.
The last pair brought up their young within the safety of its thick stone in
1899 and, although none have nested there since, ospreys from Loch Garten fly
over to feed on Loch an Eilein.
Leave the car park at
its south end and a path leads to public toilets and a little visitor centre a
short way on. Pop in and learn a bit about the history of the forest and the
animals and birds that live in it. There’s a small gift shop and you can buy a
coffee here too. From the centre, follow the path out to reach a pleasant little
beach at the northern tip of Loch an Eilein. Enjoy an uninterrupted view over
the water to Clach Mhic Cailein beyond, then turn right and follow the path
along the west side of the loch. The main way runs slightly back from the loch,
but there’s an unofficial path skirting the water’s edge which is a more
peaceful option and gives a better view of the castle ruin.
The path skirts round the western-most tip of the loch and reaches a junction.
Ignore the grassy path on your right and continue along the main route. It
briefly touches the lochside again before leaving the water to rise gently
through the trees. It passes through a lightly wooded area before dipping to
another junction.
Turn right here, leaving the main path, and a slightly narrower route heads
south, skirting round Loch Gamhna which is about a third of the size of its
neighbour. Much of the walk is through open country which makes a fine contrast
to the more heavily wooded path round Loch an Eilean.
The path rejoins the main loch circuit next to a bridge spanning the outflow
from Loch Gamhna. Turn right and the path re-enters pine forest. It briefly
skirts by the loch before twisting off into the forest, finally turning north
for the return leg.
At the next junction where a track joins from the right, carry straight on
across a small footbridge and the way widens. It sits some way back from the
loch, but you can still see the water through the trees.
The track reaches a gate. Go through and follow a stone wall down to the water’s
edge and a narrow path skirts along the shore. You can see the island again,
this time from a different angle which lets you see more of the castle. The path
rejoins the track just before it crosses a wooden bridge over the loch’s
outflow. Carry on to reach the visitor centre and retrace your steps from here
back to the car park.
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WALK FACTS
Distance 5
miles/8km.
Map OS Landranger
1:50,000 sheet 36 or Harveys Cairn Gorm.
Start/parking Rothiemurchus Loch an Eilein car park (grid ref NH 897085). There’s
a £2.50 charge.
Grading Low level woodland path throughout. It can be wet and
muddy in places. Suitable for all.
walkscotland.com
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