On
the bonnie banks
By James Carron
There's a well known song about the
'bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond' which has made Scotland's largest area of
fresh water famous throughout the world. Stretching from
Balloch, north of
Glasgow, to Ardlui, the loch is surrounded by high mountains, with dense
woodland carpeting the slopes as they sweep down to the water's edge. The West
Highland Way skirts the eastern shore, and the second below Ben Lomond, the most
southerly Munro, forms part of this fine circuit, which is suitable for just
about all ages and abilities.
The walk strikes out on a good forest track, returning through woods by the
water, where it is possible to discover roe deer or wild goats grazing silently
among the trees. This countryside forms part of the 75,000 acre Queen Elizabeth
Forest Park, managed by the Forestry Commission, and walkers are welcome to
discover its charms.
Set off from the information board within the car park and head north along the
single track road to Rowardennan youth hostel. The path splits at the hostel
gate and the walk continues along the right hand option, passing a metal gate
and following a West Highland Way marker.
After a few yards, the track forks again. Take the left arm and cross a small
stream, before skirting along behind the hostel. The path passes a cottage and a
new house on the right, then bears left to cross a burn before heading through
mixed woodland, bramble and bracken.
Cross the next junction and the track passes a stone shed, then crosses a
cattlegrid and runs along the shore of Loch Lomond to Ptarmigan Lodge. At the
entrance to the lodge, bear right and the track climbs to a metal gate. From
here, it rises through silver birch, beech, oak and rowan and curves up past a
narrow waterfall, cutting a tight course down a deep crack in the rocks. The
ascent continues for some distance until the highest point is reached, from
where it's downhill all the way to the next junction.
At
the lowest point of the track, an obvious grassy path branches off to the left,
curving down through a peaceful green woodland to the lochside, emerging at a
beach with views across the water to Tarbet. At the top of the beach, the track
meets a path. Follow this south into the trees and go quietly for you may be
lucky enough to spot roe or red deer.
The path undulates gently along the bank of the loch and if you're out after
rain take care on rocks and tree roots which can be slippery.
Continue south and, beyond a bridge made of railway sleepers, there's a fine
sandy beach which makes an ideal lunch spot with fine views down Loch Lomond.
Carry on until a wooden footbridge is reached. Once across this, the path bears
left up a narrow flight of makeshift steps rising through bracken to rejoin the
track above Ptarmigan Lodge. From here, retrace your steps to the start.
Distance 7.5
miles/12km.
Map OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 56 or Harveys West Highland Way
map.
Start/parking Public car park at Rowardennan pier, grid ref NS 360986.
There are public toilets in the car park.
Grading Sheltered track and path
through woodland and along lochside. Suitable for all.
